2003年10月09日
乃木坂シュマンの一周年
近ごろお気に入りのご近所フレンチ、乃木坂のシュマンの一周年記念特別メニューを食べに行ってきた。
オーナーソムリエの柴田さんが「ご無沙汰してますー」とはさすがにちゃんとしたお店なり。
どう考えてもお得すぎる7,000円の特別メニューにプラスしてスペシャリテのブータンノワールを一つずつ追加。すでにうひらうひら。
まずは甘めのシェリーを、とのリクエストでアマンチェラーノを戴き料理が出てくるのを待つ。お、こんなに色が浅く赤ばんでる。苦さをホンの少し感じる甘さが食べ物への期待感を盛り上げーの。
アミューズ・グールは「ブルーチーズとクルミ入りプチシューと生ハムを挟んだタルト」。さっくり軽い。
ワインの相談の段になり、前回来たときに「んー、数皿あわないのがあったねー」見たいな事を言ったのを覚えていたらしく少々時間をかけて選ぶ。ブータンノワールもあるし仔牛のポアレもあるから小じっかりした赤も欲しいし… と言ったところお勧めの白があるとのことでそれをチョイス。赤も一本取ってしまって飲み切れなかったら家に持って帰ることで話は決まった。
まずはお勧めの白、Corton-Charlemagne Grand Gru Domaine Follin-Arbelet 1998。（http://www.winegrocery.com/onlineshop/fra/bour/f-ar.html）うは、これはいい。あまり冷やしすぎずぼわんと広がったグラスに注ぐとそれだけで縁までたっぷりとした白葡萄の皮の香りがひろがる。するすると口にすると繊細な酸と皮の内側の柔らかい渋味が忍び込む。ん。これは開くですね、時間を置くと。しかしまだまだ真価を発揮するのはメニューが進む後半なのでした。
続いて「燻製したオマール海老とじゃがいものテリーヌ、秋茄子のフォンダンをあわせて」の登場。
お、海老の燻製香はあの白に会う筈！ …とドンピシャなわけで。じゃがいものテリーヌは荒く潰す程度にとどめて口当たりをワイルドに残している。聞くとコンソメをかなり混ぜ込んでおり、しっとりとした食感とともに燻製した海老の強い個性と負けないようにしてある。周囲には甘い香りのポロネギ。秋茄子を使ったフォンダンは燻製とは別の香ばしさと甘さを打ち出している。先程の繊細というか気難しい第一印象だったフォラン・アルブレだが、じゃがいもの酸味とオマール海老の燻製香と出会うととたんに人懐っこいフルーティーさが顔をのぞかせる。楽しいワインだ。19,500円は高くない。つか、安いんですけどこの店のワインてば全部。
続いて「ブーダンノワール」の登場。カリカリのポテトが綉球の工芸茶（珠形の中国茶）っぽくまとまっており、ナイフを入れるとまるでチョコレートのような豚の血のムースがじゅわりんねっとりとはみ出てくる。柴田さんがにこにこと「赤ですよね」とシャトーヌフデパプ95を注いでくれる。んーしあわせー。付け合わせのグリーンサラダもんまい。
「トランペット茸のリゾットとフォアグラのラメル、セップと黒トリュフのブイヨンソースで」が来る。これまた。どうしようもなく香りがいいんだなー。フォアグラは火をごくごく浅く入れるに留めてあり、むしろ血の味、苦味がほんのりと出てくる感じ。これがキノコ独特の濃厚な甘味と混ざり合って旨さが倍増。これも赤が開き切っていない事もあり、むしろ白とのマリアージュが素晴らしかった。
続いて「アイナメのポアレ、フランス産イチョウ蟹と蕪のナージュ」
カリリと皮目が香ばしく焼いてあるアイナメはともかく（おいおい）、ホタテと蟹の濃厚な旨味そして何といっても蕪の土臭さがこのスープソースのメインなのだな。これまた白赤両方にあう。しかしフランスパンってのもやっぱり美味しいのお。蒸気がでるオーブン買うかな。
「シャロレー種仔牛ロース肉のポアレ、リー・ド・ヴォー、ラルドと秋のきのこを添えて」
仔牛のポアレはジューシーに、しかしリー・ド・ヴォーは案に相違して唐揚げでクルトンのようにして出てきた。いやん。シャクシャクとおいしいじゃないのー。付け合わせのキノコやら野菜やらがんまい。
その後お決まりのようにチーズに。ここのスタッフと仲よくなったのも祐天寺のチーズ屋「ユーロアール」の話になったりしたからだったけか。鳴戸金時はエポワース、ブルーチーズに蜂蜜かけの２種類。僕はエポワースと塩漬けの桜の葉に包んだカマンベール、シェーブルの味の濃いのを…というリクエストで貰った硬いチーズの三種類。エポワースがとろとろでんまーい。赤ワインが本領発揮。桜の葉に包んだのは小玉シェフだとのこと。ほうほう、そういう手がありましたか。これはなかなかいいアイデアっすね。しかしヤギがいけなかった。口の中に鋭角的な渋味が残ってしまう。ということで食後酒を貰うことに。青臭い皮のにおいが残っていてかなり美味しいマールだったが失念。柴田さんがお勧めの甘いシェリーをサービスで持ってきてくれたが、ヤギの苦味をマスクする方向だったので、どちらかというと溶かし込んでねじ伏せるタイプのマールの勝ちかな。ちょうど堪能したばかりの白ワインの方向性ともあうしね。えへん。
デザートは「マロン風味のマスカルポーネクリームのミルフィーユ仕立て、ヴァニラアイスクリームとご一緒に」
いつもはフォンダンショコラだったのにぃ、と鳴戸金時がちと不満げ。しかしマロンクリームが美味しいなぁ。ミルフィーユの躯体部分というか、さくさくした板の部分がちょっと僕には甘すぎだったか。香ばしくていいんだけどね。
最後にコーヒーとプチフールが２種。
いやー堪能。
しかしお客さんが沢山ついていて心配がなくていい。
しめて59,020円で満足。
帰り際に小玉シェフもでてきてジビエ談義。なんだか盛り上がって立ち話で20分近く大声で話しあう。毎週火曜定休とのことでまたぎに一緒に行けないのが残念。連絡先だけ教えておいてあげる。
シュマン
東京都港区赤坂9－5－29
TEL&FAX 03-3408-3344
火曜定休
投稿者 KQZ : 2003年10月09日 02:41 | [EDIT]
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