2004年05月25日

黒提灯とBAMBOOと

「黒提灯」
飯がてらに近所にできた三元豚と放し飼い蔵王地鶏と焼酎が売りの店に入ってみる。外にあるメニューからすると焼酎の揃えもナカナカらしい。
入ってすぐのレジのところでなんだか予約の電話を捌いているみたいだけどマニュアルそのまんまで手際が悪いったらありゃしない。客にまず目配せ位しろよタコ。たっぷり3分ほど待たされて店内に入る。カウンター、それも狭いー。しかし雨の月曜日だというのに混んでいる。メニューはそれなりにそそられる。焼き物とサラダと飛龍頭と…と頼んでいく。しかしここからが地獄。
いちいち味は悪くないのだが出てくるのが遅い。単純に人員が足りないのだな。ぜぇんぶ人肌以下の温度になって出てくるからせっかく美味しいはずの鶏レバーも最悪のべちゃべちゃ状態。軟骨がたたいて入っているつくねもダメダメ。200種類の焼酎が売りらしいけどコレくらいならウチに転がってる焼酎の方がはるかに旨いしなぁ。大体おすすめを聞いても店員が把握してないからどーしょもないやぁ。最初に頼んだ生ビールがぬるかっただけではなくグラスが乾燥機から出たてで熱いくらいだったことから想像はついてたんだけどもね。
ということで半年は行かないことに決定。素地がいいのでオペレーションがこなれてくればいい店になるんじゃないかしら、と期待だけ。その前につぶれてしまっても一向に構わんけども。少なくともあれだけいい素材の鶏レバーをいい火加減で焼いてるにもかかわらず生臭くなるまでさまして出すのは食べ物に対して失礼なわけで、オペレーションサイドだけではなく、皿を洗うときにだって肉汁のつき方でそれくらいは気づかなきゃいけないのでもある。つまりダメダメな店ですな。兵站だけでは戦争は勝てないっつーの。
こういった店を再生させるキーワードはひとつ。食べ物を出すときに「熱いうちにお召し上がりください」が言えるかどうか。それをキチンと言えるための雰囲気作り、教育、人的リソース、動線計画、コスト管理ができなきゃどうしようもないわけで。ただ、それら全てを集約できるコンセプトワードを一つだけ設定して、それを目標にして前進していかないとどうしてもチームというものはぶれていってしまうのだな。そしてこまめな微調整と。とはいいながら、サービスなんてことに頭が回らないカタイ親会社だったりすると何をやるにも稟議がどーのこーのとか、方向転換するにも予算がかかったり、となってしまって動かなくなるのはこの一年半骨身にしみてるけども。（苦笑）　そういう会社はラジオでも作ってなさい。

「Bamboo」
その後「タートヴァン」に行こうと思ったらその手前の路地になにやら開店祝いの花輪が目に入ってきた。京の町屋風のたたずまいのバーらしい。なになに、花輪の送り元が「京都Ｋ６」「吉祥寺Bar Woody」「ウッド＆リバー」…って、知り合いばっかりやん。仕方がない入るとするか。
中は本当に落ち着い京の民家をイメージさせるたたずまいのクラシックバー。壁の酒たちは数は少ないながらもそれなりにすごそうな。ジンフィズはゴードンベースでやや重め。んー確かに京都っぽいなぁ。んまい。シェイクはシェーカーの中で氷を丁寧にまわすタイプ。若い人にしては珍しい。
ほうほう、昨日が開店日だったんですかー、はいはい、田中さんには伝言しときますですよ、などといろいろ話をしながらお次のマンハッタン。へー、あの店にいたんだー、とかとか。チルドしたターキー・ライとカルパノでピールはなし。これも重めでアタックが強い。もすこし冷たくあわせてピールもしたらかなり高得点なんだけどなー。ステアもごくゆっくりと。
続いてグリーンラベルのラムをもらう。ラパラン好きな店主がコストパフォーマンスからいってもっともお勧めなんだと。確かに香りはいいがラパランの引き込むような味とはちょっと違うかな。及第点。
最後にジンアレキサンダーとクォーターデッキ。クォーターデッキは気合が入りすぎると硬い味になるので面白いなぁ。氷が解けないように気をつけすぎると甘さが出なくなるんだな。なぁんてそこら辺のことを気づいているみたいだから彼は話があうのでした。ジンアレキサンダーはジンの風味を生かしていて文句なし。グラスもかわいい。
ということでかなり面白い店ができたのでしばらく通うことになりそうな。アンティークグラスがきれいだしね。

黒提灯：
赤坂3-6-12山翠会館B1　03-3505-6517

Bamboo：
赤坂3-19-3みすじ通り西入ル南側　03-3589-4170

投稿者 KQZ : 2004年05月25日 01:48 | [EDIT]

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