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2004年10月19日

赤坂離宮の交詢ビル店に行ってみた

乃木坂のフレンチレストラン「シュマン」の方々に誘われて、オープンしたばかりの中華料理屋さん『赤坂離宮』の交詢ビル店に行ってきたのだった。
小雨降る銀座をてくてく歩いていくと、リニューアルしたばかりでぴかぴかの交詢ビルがすぐに見えてきた。飲食店街は4階と5階で、『広東名菜 赤坂離宮 交詢ビル店』は5階なのだ。
お、内装がゴージャス。赤坂とちがうー。広いダイニングを囲むように8つの個室があるそうで、われわれも12人用の個室に通されてしまった。あらあら。

シュマンのみなさんは既に到着していてちょっとお待たせしてしまった。
各雑誌で“イケメンソムリエ”と紹介されている事も多い柴田さんが譚料理長と懇意だとかで、メニューはあらかじめ決めていてくれているとのこと。楽しみ〜。

rikyu1.JPG rikyu2.JPG rikyu3.JPG rikyu4a.JPG 5分でこうなる→ rikyu4b.JPG

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まずは「前菜四種盛り合わせ」でビールをいただき乾杯。「鵞鳥と豚と鳥の焼き物」と、写真には撮りわすれたが「固豆腐と胡瓜の和え物」も出てきていた。豚のクリスピーな皮がんまい。鵞鳥も味が濃いなぁ。
食べている途中に譚料理長が部屋までいらして御挨拶など。やっぱカッコいいですなぁ。
続いて「車海老のバター炒め」。ここら辺で15年ものの紹興酒に切り替える。常温ですんなりと戴ける香りよく美味しい紹興酒だった。
「フカヒレと松茸の上湯スープ」はフカヒレがたーーっぷり。上湯には烏骨鶏の肉も入っていて滋味深い。
「乳鳩の丸揚げ」はしっかりと火が入っているのにぱさぱさになっていなくて絶妙。首の周りの骨をがしがしと噛むと美味しいジュースがでてくるのだ。んまいんまい。アタマがないので脳味噌が食べられないのは残念だなぁ。あっというまに綺麗に骨だけになりましたとさ。
お次はさらりと「白身魚の雪菜と唐辛子のせ蒸し」。白身魚のふるふるとした食感がたまらん。衣にしっかりと包まれてほとんど清蒸状態になっていて口の中でいい香りでとけていくのだ。そういえば香港でピンクガルーパ喰いたいなぁ…
次の豆腐料理は、食感の差を楽しませてくれるように「揚げ豆腐の特製スパイス」が出てきた。しっかりとしたお豆腐を上新粉(?)のようなさっくりもちっとした衣で揚げて、大量のにんにくとほうれん草と唐辛子と「秘密のスパイス」を揚げたクリスピーな揚げかす(としかいいようがないのだが紛れもなくこれが主役なのだな)がかかっている。いやぁこの「揚げかす」を讃岐うどんにかけて食べたいわさ。
野菜料理は「豆苗とマコモ茸の炒め」。シャクシャクと美味しい。

しかしさっきからシェフの小玉さんが中華料理の火の使い方にイチイチ感心してインタビューしている。なになに、横から聞いてみると… 前菜の豚の皮のさくさくとした食感は超高温の油にざんぶりと入れ、鳩の肉にはしっとりとした質感を残し皮ははりっと艶よく揚げるやり方は揚げ油をかけ回して天火を使っているとのこと。白身魚の蒸し加減は絶妙だし、揚げ豆腐も豆苗もシンプルながら油っぽくなく仕上げていて後に残らない。面白いなぁ。

メニューでは次にチャーハンがでて終了だったのだが、食いしん坊揃いの我等は「ショウロンポウ」(写真撮りわすれ)と「特製ビーフン」を追加オーダー。
汁ビーフンはもうちょっと熱々の方がよかったかな。味は満足。
最後に「牛ひき肉の醤油チャーハン」で締め。
デザートは「あずきのゼリーきんもくせい風味」。かなりしっかりとした固さのゼリーで意外感もありとても美味しい。

お茶を戴いて一服いれる。そろそろ冬なのでまた逗子に行かねば、なぁんて話が出てきたりして。
会計を済ませてビルの中を偵察。
新橋時代に行っていた「趙楊」が4階に来ているのだ。やはり松本隆さんのお花があるじゃありませんか。

ぐるりとビル内のテナントを偵察し終えてから三々五々別れ、我々はタリスカに。
雨の平日ながらもお客さんは半分くらいの入り。
某所で連載している酒コラムの11月分の取材「ウィスキー私のこの一本」を内田さんに選んでもらうのだ。
モスコミュール、グレンファークラスと飲み進めながら取材は終了。タクシーで帰宅。

広東名菜 赤坂離宮 銀座店
中央区銀座6-8-7 交詢ビル5F
Tel: 03-3569-2882
年中無休
平日 11:30-14:30(L.O.) 17:00-22:00(L.O.)
土  11:30-21:00(L.O.)
日祝 17:00-20:00(L.O.)

投稿者 KQZ : 2004年10月19日 11:57 | [EDIT]

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