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2006年01月20日

深夜の六本木和食と謎のDVDと

過日。
夕方というか夜になってからケータイに「今日六本木の龍吟に行きませんか? といっても12時過ぎになりますけど」とメールが入る。
発信元はとある業界では超有名なマニアの某氏からだ。

龍吟の山本さんとは先日獣肉を食べに行った時に一回お会いしたことがあるのだがお店には未訪だったので、いい機会とばかりに乗らせてもらうことにする。

1時ちょうど位につくとすでにマニアな方がカウンターに。
ラストオーダーが深夜1時で、それまでには入れれば3時くらいまでは営業しているのだという。

さて時間も時間だということで軽く行きましょうとメニューをしげしげと眺める。
ワインリストがだいぶ充実しているが一本あけるほどの元気はない。ビールとお茶にしてもらう。

「今日の鮪はいいですよ」というので平目と一緒盛りでいただくことにする。
〆は炊き込みご飯かなぁ、と物色していると「大根飯」というのが目を惹いた。
この「大根飯」は初めて龍吟がテレビに取材されたときに取り上げられたメニューだそうで、それを見たお客様が夏でも「大根飯を」と注文するくらいの名物メニューなのだそうな。ODINのブラッディメリーみたいなもんですな。大根の旬でということもありせっかくなので注文する。
それと… と悩んでいると「こないだの逗子の猪は最高でしたけど、ウチの猪鍋も是非食べてみてください。料理方法が全然違いますから」というのでそれもオーダー。

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まず先付けにでてきたのは牛肉の味噌漬けを焼いたもの。上に乗っているのは走りのフキノトウを揚げたものだ。フキノトウの苦々しい香りと濃厚な肉の味で食欲が喚起される。
つづいてお造り。(「御造里」って書く店もあるよね)
「この鮪は大間の最高のやつで、今年最後のじゃないかな。 値段も…」
おぉっと聞かないこと聞かないこと。萎縮して食べられなくなっちまいますわ。
美しい一片を山葵醤油でいただく。
うまい。
まず赤身の肉肉した味と香りが広がったかと思うと身の中に細かく細かく刺し入っている脂が口の中でほわっととける。しかしどうしてうまい鮪ってのは香ばしい香りすらしてくるのかね。
熟成の完成具合もここまでくると山葵は醤油でとき気味にしたものでいただくほうがあうように思える。
要はスピードの問題なのではないかと。
だって口の中に入れた瞬間に味が開き始めるわけだから。
どっかの本で読んだように山葵を身の上にちょこっと置いて醤油に溶かさないほうがいいってな向きもあるだろうが、そういうのは死後硬直したてのカキカキの若い身とか脂ギトギトの下品な大トロにしとくれってなもんだ。(←さすがに言いすぎ)
平目は龍吟特製のポン酢でいただく。
これまたうまい。
しかし縁側ってのはいくつくらいからうまいと感じるんだろうかなぁ。小学生くらいの時にはあんまりありがたがらなかったような記憶があるのだが。

次の皿を待っている間に「中トロの一番いいとこです」と一口ずつ出していただく。

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うまーーーぃ。
寿司なら一貫5,000円クラスですな。銀座なら軽く倍か。

程なくして猪鍋が登場。
量は食べられないのでお椀にして分けていただく。深夜でもこういう使い方ができるってのはいいなぁ。
甘い白味噌仕立てで葱がわんさかと入っている。猪の脂が溶ける寸前の飛び切りいいところに黒七味がざくっとかかっていい香りが立ち上っている。

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甘い。そしてうまい。
これはこれはちゃんと料理してあってうまいなぁ。(いや、逗子のもうまいんだけどさ)
以前からさくまあきらさんご夫妻から「京都の牡丹鍋は白味噌仕立てでうまい」と伺っていたのですがこれはあいますな合いますな。

そして土鍋で炊いた大根飯が登場。

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おぉー。なんだかおしんもびっくり。
大根と御飯とを一緒に炊き込んだいわゆる大根飯に、胡桃油で炒めた7ミリ角の大根と葉っぱ、京大根を上にかけて蒸らして最後に柚子の香りを散らしてある。
もう深夜2時過ぎだというのにはぐはぐと食べる食べる。

「そうだ。ウチの鴨も食べてってください」と山本さん。
ん? と思いながら出てきたのがコレ。

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上に乗ってるのは塩昆布じゃありません。トリュフです。
ほんの薄く刷毛で引いた程度の山葵醤油とトリュフの香りだけ。あとはレアな焼き加減の鴨の血の味で十二分においしい。
ここでひとしきり浅草の鷹匠寿について思うところを語り合う。
やっぱりみんなそう思うよな。あそこそんなにうまくないのに高すぎ。味付けが醤油と大根おろしってのもなぁ。そのまま食わしてくれって頼んでもだめだし。ワインに合わないやぃ。若旦那が焼いてくれるのと仲居さんが焼くのでは全然違うし。今年も何回か呼ばれたけどあんまり時間とってまで行く気が起きないんだよなぁ。
ま、いいや。もとよりレベルのかなり高いところのお話なので行ったことがない人にとってはお勧めなんですがぁ。

最後にはデザートが二品。

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このふわふわしたものは中に苺が入っている綿菓子。
で、この球形のものは、液体窒素で凍らせた林檎ジュースなのだ。エルブジかぃ。んで周りはスパイシーな飴細工。
割ってみるとさらさらの粉上の林檎ジュースが出てきてこれまたすこぶるうまい。
さらりとシナモン味が舞っているのだが、すするようにすぅっと食べるとジュースのような味わいであり、かみ締めるように多めに食べるとアップルパイのような味わいもする。面白し。

ラストオーダーもとっくに過ぎて他にお客さんがいなかったので料理談義など。

しかし山本さんもやっぱりオタクの部類の人だった。それも超絶の部類。
なんでも鱧の骨切りを極めるために知り合いの医者に頼んで鱧をCTスキャンして骨の構造を調べたりしたのだそうな。
液体窒素のマシンも三つ持ってるそうだし。
てなことを話していたら謎のDVDをいただいてしまった!
料理人の友達用に作った限定のDVDだとかで、鱧のCTスキャン映像も液体窒素のデザートの作り方も出ているのだとか。
もしかして… 僕、料理人と思われてますか…?
門外不出のポン酢のレシピも教えてもらっっちゃったし。
次に獣肉を食べに行くときには龍吟スタッフ総勢8人で来るとのこと。
離宮の譚さんに麺屋武蔵さんにバードランド和田さんに… って錚々たる料理人のファンが増えてるなぁあの店。紹介してるからしかたないか。

あと面白かった話。
「渋谷の焼肉屋さん「ゆうじ」のゆうじさんと、中目黒の虎の穴の社長のシンさんが焼肉対決をするっていうんですよ」
「ん? 対決ってなんです?」
「お互いに肉を持ち込んでこっちがうまい…ってやるらしいですよ」
「へー」
「で、KQZさん審査員やりません?」
「はぁっ?」

その二人の肉勝負となるととんでもない肉がでてくるんだろうなぁ…
忙しくなければ行ったんだが。残念。

お土産に大根の炊き込みご飯を折に詰めてもらい歩いて帰宅。


日本料理 龍吟
住所: 港区六本木7-17-24 サイド六本木ビル1F
Tel: 03-3423-8006
営業: 18:00~2:00(LO.1:00)
定休: 日曜・祝日

投稿者 KQZ : 2006年01月20日 23:56 | [EDIT]

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