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2007年01月13日

中井ヴィンヤードさんとてやん亭゛で会食

いつもお世話になっている麻布の酒屋さん長野屋の林さんから「中井ヴィンヤードの中井さんが日本に来ているので一度飲みませんか」とお誘いをいただいたのがさきおとつい（江戸弁）だったか。
で、いそいそと西麻布はてやん亭゛に伺ったのが11日の21時半。

既にてやん亭゛の岩澤社長がいらしてたので御挨拶をする。
いやー喋っても一本筋が通ってるしカッコいいわー。（上のLink先も面白いっす）

程なくして林さん夫妻がアカデミーデュヴァンの授業帰りの方々と共にやってきて座が盛り上がってくる。
そしてものすごいオーラの紳士が登場。
中井章恵氏その人である。

中井さんのことはここら辺を参照していただくとして。

　ワイン道場マキノ酒店（cache)

2002のメルローと2003のものとを較べてみる。
うむ。実に果実味。
タンニンの具合が新しい物の方が強く残っている。
また2002の方はすでに程よく枯れている風情すら感じられる。
ちょうど目の前にお座りになられた中井さんはまさしくそのように作ったとおっしゃる。
2002のシャルドネと2004のシャルドネでは、2002はリンゴ酸をしっかりと残し、2004のほうはしっかりとしたマロラクティック発酵。
グラスの形状を変えないとならないほどの違いがここにはあった。
（注：グラスの形は「香りを閉じ込める」とかいう機能のほかに、口の中に落ちてくる液体の流速と幅、落としこむ深さなどを調整するという極めて重要な機能がある。つまり、リンゴ酸を舌先からゆっくりと飲むと口の中じゅうが酸っぱくなりすぎてしまうので舌の根元あたりにうまく落とせるような流速の早い＝グラスのふちの角度と距離があるものを使ったほうが美味しく感じられるなど。ま、言わずもがなですが念のため）

懇切丁寧に説明していただいていわく、その年のブドウを尊重し、変にいじっていないのだということになる。
春先に味見をしてみて、「あぁ、これは樽熟を浅くしてさっぱりと楽しんでもらおう」と思い立てばそのまま行動に移し、ワインに仕立て上げる。
過去の自分の味、それも好評を囲った味ですら気にせずにあっさりと乗り越えていく。
そう、変えようと思ったって畑の土や、熟成している蔵の空気や、ましてや作り手の個性なんてのは隠せやしないのだ。
ソービニオンブランにしてもメルローにしても、どのグラスの中にも中井さんがにこやかにくっきりといた。

しかし、この大きな差は時として武器になり、時として不利にも働くだろう。そうも考えた。
たとえば、どこかのお店でたまたまタンニンの強い年度のものをいただきファンになったとして、違う年度のものはいささか異なるテイストであることが容易に想像される。

「たとえば、このシャルドネのラベルなんですけれど……」

「酸味の強く感じられる年のものはバックグランドの色味を青っぽくしたり、
　逆にまろみの感じられる年のものはオレンジがかった黄色にしてみたり、と
　ラベル全体の色調で味が想像できるようにしたらよくないですかね？
　初めて飲む人って年度というよりラベルとか蔵元とかで覚えるものですから」

無謀にもこんな提案をしてみたりする。
ご本人とアカデミーデュヴァンの生徒さんたち、それに岩澤社長の仲間の料飲店の経営者の方々は口々に面白がったくれた。
んが。
肝心の輸入元にまったくやる気が感じられない。
というよりも「知らないでしょうけど印刷はむつかしいんですよ」などといわれてしまう。
酔っ払っているからかかなり横柄に聞こえる口振りにもちょっとむっとしてしまうがそれはそれとして内容が問題である。
あのー、僕12年ほど広告代理店にいたんですけどー。日本酒のラベルのデザインとかもしてるんですけどー。
そんなこんなが口から出掛かったが、ゲーム作ってるってだけでなく利き酒師やらライターやら店もやってて、さらにこんなことまで言い出してしまうと全部が嘘っぱちっぽく聞こえてしまうのが経験上わかっているのでここはぐっと飲み込む。

「それにね、中井ヴィンヤードのワインは300ケース、3,600本しか作らないの。貼るのが大変なのと少量印刷だから、一枚1ドルくらいかかるんで毎年印刷しなおすなんて到底出来ないのっ」
……ダメだこりゃ。
知らないのに口からでまかせいってやがる。
もしくは現地のボトリング業者にだまされてるかだな。
こんなもん（版下をのぞけば）10円で十分お釣りがくるだろうに。
毎年変わるのは色味調整と墨一色のヴィンテージだけなんだし。
日本で作って送ったって100円なんざかかりゃしない。

なんだか話すのも馬鹿らしくなってしまい、岩澤さんチームと別建ての日本酒企画についてあれやこれやとお話をする。

あーすげー、なんかこの人たちいいかも。
繁盛している料飲店オーナーたちのおちゃらけた（失礼）雰囲気とは打って変わって、ビシバシと鋭い突っ込みが全員から入りまくる。今日あったばかりだというのに。
「おー、おもしろいじゃん。応援するよ。いやホントに」
ありがたいことでございます。

夜半。
惜しみつつ解散である。
自転車をゆっくりと漕ぎながらいろいろなことが頭をよぎる。
仕事と、モチベーションについて。
料飲店の人たちは、目の前のお客様を楽しませることが最大のモチベーションなのだろう。
距離も時間もものすごく近距離である。時間は一時間半から長居して三時間程度か。
仕入れや仕込み、店のデザインなども含めて考えた準備期間は数日から数年まで幅広い。
方やワイナリーの中井さんは、まだ見ぬワインラバーを楽しませるために、一年掛けてブドウを作り、数年掛けて熟成させて、数十年掛けて畑の土を作る。
ひとたび手を離れた息子娘であるワインたちは、ボトルに詰められて世界中へと散り散りになって広く愛されることになる。
かたやあの輸入元の人はどうなんだろうか？
もちろんこのワインを気に入っているからこそ、無名の頃から親身になって開拓して育ててきているのだろう。それはよくわかる。
ただ、それは「飲む人」のことを考えているのではどうやらないようだ。
売れること、売った先の料飲店さんに喜んでもらえること。作り手にちゃんと還元すること。
そういうところがモチベーションになっているような気がしてならなかったのだ。
どちらがいいんだろう、ということではないのはわかる。
両方やりたかったからこそ広告をやりながらアーティスト契約を会社としていたわけだし。
…なんかここら辺のことは前にblogに書いてたな。
あとで思い出そうっと。

てやん亭゛　TEYANDEI
港区西麻布2-20-1
営業: 17:30～0:00
Tel: 03-3407-8127
http://www.teyandei.com/

投稿者 KQZ : 2007年01月13日 02:07 | [EDIT]

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