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2004年12月04日

日本酒千本ノック

(相変わらずの後だし日記)

ことの発端は忘れてしまったが、『日本酒千本ノック』と称してミニ勉強会をやることになったのだった。
今回のテーマは「山田錦と雄町の聞き分け」なのだ。
雨交じりの土曜の午後、会場の四谷三丁目「浅間」に集まった善男善女12名。
（参加者：佐賀県が生みそしてトロを生んだトロチチさんご夫妻、日経レストランの菅原さんご夫妻、利き酒師の会からは酒と友に去りぬさんをはじめとして4人、それと哲さん、ヨネさん、名取くん）
講師はバー業界におけるODIN菊地と並び称されるくらいしゃべり始めるととまらない畠山くん。
どっちも友達でいいのか＞オレ
自嘲気味に始まった千本ノックなのでありました…

まずは酔鯨の山田錦50％と雄町50％からスタート。
この二つは酒米以外のスペックはほぼ同じなので比べやすいのだ。
高知県だけにいわゆる端麗に作ってあるのでそういった意味でもわかりやすいし。最後まで飲んでみてわかったけどこれはセレクトの妙かも。日本酒に関しては畠山くんはあいかわらずエライ。

がっさりとしたイメージとしては山田錦は味が丸くというかスクウェアになり勝ちで、雄町はワイルドというか舌の上からの落ち具合が線をもった感じに（もちろん作り方によっては甘くも酸っぱくもできるのだが基本的に、ということね）なり勝ちだと、かねてから思っていたことを再認識。もちろん高精米になると作り手の腕のほうが際立ってくるんだけどもね。

続いて醸し人九平次の雄町50％にいく。
酔鯨との雄町同士の連関を覚えようという狙いのセレクトですか。
九平次は華やかでうまみを乗せた作りだから酔鯨との対比によって逆に酒米の特徴を際立たせようという事なわけです。仕込み水の性格もぜんぜん違うしそういった意味では非常に面白い取り合わせ。
じっくりと雄町同士の聞き比べをした後にくどき上手の雄町を追加。
うーん。九平次の火入れよりくどき上手の火入れのうまさが光ってしまう。
いや、精密に聞き比べるとそう感じるだけなんで十二分に上手なんだけどもね。

おって九平次の山田錦も登場。
九平次同士の山田と雄町の比較だが、ここまでくるとほぼ全員が聞き比べでき始めてくる。
続いて東一の山田錦と松の司の雄町大吟醸。
松の司は綺麗にまとめている。ちょっと優等生過ぎるかも、という声もありーの。
ちょうど偶然にも松の司の蔵人・石田くんからケータイメールが入っていたので「いま松の司の雄町大吟醸をみんなで飲んでる」と返信。
すると

「えーっ！本当ですか？会社ではあまり巧く出来た自信がなかったので出荷しようかどうか夏もかなり専務ときき酒したんです。KQZさんにペケを付けられないんだったら安心です(^-^)。今年の長谷川ブランドの愛山と雄町は米の扱いもなれたんで去年より巧くつくれそうです。」

と早速返信がやってきた。いま仕込みで14本目、愛山で大吟醸を仕込んだところだという。今年も楽しみですにぃ。

そろそろ食事もでてきて宴会モードに突入。
お酒は東一の選抜13BYが出てきた。
あ、「BY」というのはブリュワリー・イヤーの略で、醸造した年の事。つまりBY13というのは平成13年度に醸造されて今まで蔵で冷蔵貯蔵でじっくり熟成されたお酒という事ね。
ぐぉー。力感が違うー。やはり選抜なだけはある。この年に10本しか出てなかったアイテムなのだが、上手に育ったもんだなぁ。
東一といえばトロチチさんの地元とご近所だそうで、そこらへんの話もひとしきり。

そして今日のメインの東一大吟醸うすにごり微発砲。
これは鑑評会用選抜タンクの荒走りで、年に10本程度しか取れないというレアもの。この日記には時々出てくるアイテムだが、基本的には蔵元さん同士で取り合いになるので一般で飲めるのは浅間にあるものだけといういわゆる「浅間スペシャル」の一本なのだ。当然数にも限りがあるので通常は封を空ける一月くらい前から店内で「○日に空けるから飲みたければその日に来てね」とお触れが回る酒なのだが、今日は特別に一本空けてくれたのだ。ありがたや。
まず上澄みをいただく。いつものとおりの仙人の霞酒である。確実にKRUGなんかより格が上。続いて上下をゆっくりと撹拌してにごりへ。
…んまい。

食事のほうもかなり気合が入っていておつくり・揚げ物・焼き鳥・蛸しゃぶからタラチリのコンボ鍋まで。大満腹。

二次会に流れるということでご近所の「おかげさん」に行き、奈良萬、杉勇、鳳凰美田をしっかりいただく。
最後に赤坂に流れ流れて締めと相成りましたとさ。

地酒　あさま
新宿区四谷3-7
TEL: 03-3355-2977
定休: 日・祝
http://www4.famille.ne.jp/%7Easama/

萬屋 おかげさん
新宿区四谷2-10 松本館B1
Tel: 03-3355-8100
月〜金　18:00〜24:00(L.O.23:30)
土　　　18:00〜22:30(L.O.23:00)
定休日: 日・祝
http://okagesan.net/

赤坂　BARすず菜
港区赤坂3-6-11 第100東京ビル4F
Tel: 03-3583-8668
定休: 日・祝
http://r.gnavi.co.jp/a226800/

投稿者 KQZ : 2004年12月04日 23:59 | [EDIT]

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　お酒の味がわかる男になりたい……！ということで、ＫＱＺ氏と、四谷三丁目の浅間の... [続きを読む]

トラックバック時刻: 2004年12月09日 08:20

コメント

　土曜日は大変お世話になりました。東一には本当に驚かされました。あれだけの味を突きつけられ、ノックダウンされると、ますますお酒に興味が沸いてきます。いつもいつもＫＱＺさんにお世話になるだけでなく、もう少しアンテナを立ててみようと思いました。ありがとうございました。

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