2007年09月25日

家事こなし明石先生から入電、浅草で飲んで六本木で技というか智慧の継承を考えつつ麻布税務署へ注文、な月曜日

　休日の月曜日。
　なんだか変な陽気だったのでお散歩したり庭の椿の枝を切ったり昼寝をしてたら夕方近くになってしまった。
　携帯電話に着電があったとおもったら明石散人先生で急いで取って直立。
　なんでも明石先生のメールアドレスにウィルス起因と見られる大量のメールボムが来ているらしい。しかしこのタイミングとなると総裁選の関係かなぁ。対処方法などお話しつつ、週明けにでも別件で事務所に伺うかな、と。

　日本酒蔵人の村上君と打ち合わせのために浅草に移動。
　17時ちょっと前についたので神谷バー前で落ち合って向かうは「ぬる燗」へ。
　…が、今日はお休み。なんだってーー（AA省略）

　仕方がないので龍圓(りゅうえん)に電話をかけてみると、2人なら入れるとのこと。ラッキー。
　龍圓さんとはODINの菊地さんから紹介されたというか、逗子時代からの「またぎ」仲間というか、まぁ食いしん坊よしみの知り合いなのですが、今まで一度も食べに来れたことがなかったのでした。だって近頃ダンチュウとかで取り上げられすぎてて予約取れないんだもの。なんとか席をとります、とか言われてもそれも申し訳ないし。

　ということで食べた食べた。

　海老のサラダ、春巻、焼売、イタリアン酢豚、麻婆豆腐（with ご飯）、ホタテのチリソース炒め、冷やし中華、台湾高山の生烏龍茶。自家製のXO醤も付け合わせにいただく。お酒はアサヒドライを一本と甕出し三年物紹興貴酒を二合。

　どれをとっても旨いうまい。
　化学調味料を使っていないためさらりとした感じなのですな。
　途中シェフの栖原さんがテーブルまで来てくださってよしなし話をしつつ村上君を紹介したり。
　最後の最後までおいしく頂きました。
　また来ようっと。

　中國小菜　龍圓　りゅうえん
　　台東区西浅草3-1-9
　　Tel: 03-3844-2581
　　http://www.tctv.ne.jp/ryuen/

栖原さんのブログも発見したのでリンク。

　栖原一之のブログ
　　http://www.chojin-chef.jp/blog/suhara/

　相当お腹がいっぱいになったのでバーを散策。
　目指すは花川戸のDoras。
　場所がよくわからないものの、この無名のカリスマという人の悪い方が大推薦してくれているので間違いがなかろうと探し当てて到着と。
　全員入れて8席のカウンターと2席のテーブル二つというシンプルなお店でしたが、そろえているお酒もそれなりもこだわりがありそうです。ほうほうほう。
　こちらはまだ打ち合わせがあるので軽く（と言っても店の方にとっては重いか）ジンフィズとモスコミュールをオーダー。
　ジンフィズは外気の湿度・温度にしてはちょっと重めではあるものの相当高い及第点。二杯目のクォーターデッキはシェイクしすぎでティオペペの風味が若干そこなわれながらもバランスよろし。
　流石です。
　フードメニューも頑張っているらしいので、今度はお酒メインの時に来てみようっと。
　お勘定を終えてからご挨拶をして解散。

　BAR　DORAS　Ｄoor of Riverside
　台東区花川戸2-2-6
　TEL/FAX：03-3847-5661
　　http://doras.exblog.jp/

　その後、地下鉄銀座線→日比谷線で六本木まで移動してアボットチョイスに立ち寄る。
　お店で焼酎を頼まれることがあるらしいとのことなのですが家から一升瓶の村尾とか森伊蔵とかを持っていってもバックバーで邪魔になるだけなので、飲みやすい赤霧島の4合瓶を持ち込むという半お仕事でもあったのですな。同時に鰹の酒盗もデリバリー。
　飲む方はというと、キックの強いお酒がほしかったのでホワイトレディをオーダー。
　うん、ちゃんと旨い。

　ちなみにKIM（ひげ）さんはもうすぐ六本木店を卒業して自分の店を新宿にオープンする予定なのだ。
　今日は連休最終日ということでお客さんもそんなにはいないということもあり、若いTJR君も話しかけてくる。
　TJRくん曰く「先週、赤坂のBambooに勉強しに行ったんですよ」とのこと。
　こういうのは応援したくなるよねぇ。
　僕なんかが彼らにできることというのは、前世代からの申し送りみたいなものなのかもしれない。
　例えばBambooで、何を飲んだのか、どういう作り方だったのか、提供の仕方は…　　いろいろなことが学べるはずだったんだけど、はじめから「Abbot's Choiceの…」と自己紹介してしまったらしい。これは惜しい。だって普通の接客してくれなくなっちゃうもの。
　若いけどもBambooの叶野さんの客あしらいの技術はすごいのだ。もちろんカクテルもキチンと美味しい。
　叶野さんの目標はわかりやすくODINの菊地さんであり、だからこそ菊地さんをBambooに連れて行った時の話を僕は大笑いしながら、仲間うちのAbbot's Choiceいずみさんとかタリスカ内田さんに話すのだ。こいつらが二十年後に東京のバー業界のメインストリームもしくは「うるさ型」になるのはわかりきっているのだから。

　だったらねぇ、渋谷のコレオスには行ったことある？　えー、ないの？　吉祥寺のジョージズバーのジョージさん亡きあとあの経験値をもった人はいないんだから毎週でも行きなよ。例えばさ、コレオスのマティーニって、いわゆる流行りの、ここ２０年くらい日本で流行っているドライマティーニとは全然違ってて、温度が上がっても美味しいなんというか甘めのマティーニなんだけど、提供の仕方自体が芸の域に入っているんだよねぇ。マティーニがこうグラスにいっぱいに出てくるでしょ。「どうぞ」って言われて一口飲むと、そこにスッとピンオリーブが沈んでくるんだよね。ジンフィズなんかはシェイカーに大きめの角氷を入れてレモン、ジン、シロップを入れてシェイクして、それをタンブラーに注いだ後に、シェイカーにそうっとソーダを注ぐのよ。んで、シェイカーの内側のお酒分を溶かしこんでからタンブラーにソーダを注ぐとすり切りいっぱいになってるわけ。（へー）　へーじゃなくて、そっからがまた技。　それだけでも美味しいジンフィズなんだけど、一口飲んでいると、目の前でシェイカーから角氷をピンセットにつまんで待ってるのさ。で、あわててタンブラーを置くとそこにぽちょんと角氷がおさまって、またタンブラーが満杯になるという。ね。こういうやり取りでもお客さんとのコミュニケーションってとれるじゃんか。

　なぁんて話をしながらお酒を飲むのは楽しい娯楽である。

　独立間近のKIM（ひげ）さんにはダイキリをオーダーしながら、ジョージズバーのダイキリの作り方をお話したりする。
　メイプルシロップではなかったものの、最後にフロートするダークラムがとても効いてくる。出来上がったカクテルをすすると表面のフロートした雑味のあるダークラムは主に香りと甘さだけをまとわせ、メインの味は酸味を利かせた端正なホワイトラムでしゃっきりとバランスがとれる。そして最後の一口二口はフロート分がほぼ無くなりすっきりとした後味で終えることができる……　　どう考えてもうまく作ればこのカクテルは完璧さんなのだ。
　このコラムを書いたのはもう7年以上前だと思うが、かなりたくさんのバーで参考にされているらしい。

　こうしてサイトを作っていたりいろいろなお店で飲んだり食べたりして料理人やバーテンダーさんと仲良くしているのは、一つには世代を超えた、場所を超えた技術を橋渡ししているという側面もあるのかもしれない。
　いや食事や飲み物だけではなく、プログラム/プログラマーなんかもそうかもしれないけれども。

　えーっと、だからなんてんですか。
　日本のバー業界飲食業界の発展に寄与しているわけですから、税金的にもなんというか控除してくれないかなぁ、と主に麻布税務署方面に向かって書いてみたりするわけでございます。
　どうか一つ。（小松正夫風に）

投稿者 KQZ : 2007年09月25日 01:20 | [EDIT]

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KQZ on authentic

備忘録 〜いまだ移行中〜

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備忘録〜いまだ移行中〜